Our "southeastern" herons do not migrate like their cousins in the north assuring us year-round problems with the predator. The herons that migrate breed in their northern home then fly south to bask in our sunshine during the cold months. Winter in our area is the most dangerous time of year for the inhabitants of our backyard ponds. We have more predators (via migration) when the ponds are least protected. There are no plants in the water for fish to hide in. There are no leaves on the trees to conceal the pond from overhead view.

By studying the Great Blue Heron’s eating and mating habits we can install safeguards to minimize their threat to our ponds.

Herons pick their partners in early spring. A heron decoy placed by the pond during March and April can actually draw a male in search of a mate. It’s best to wait until late May to put out the decoy. The decoy IS a very effective method in June through February because once he picks his mate the heron then defends his territory. Herons stay out of other herons’ defended territories when not in search of a mate. Remember when you use a decoy to periodically move it around to keep up the appearance of a live bird.

A heron’s natural predators are foxes, minks, hawks and raccoons but we wouldn’t suggest keeping any of them around to ward off a possible heron attack. Raccoons are the 2nd most common pond predators. Minks are little devils that love to eat fish and can swim like one - and will eat cats as well. Foxes do not normally eat fish but make very unhappy pets plus their odors can be as "pleasing" as a skunk’s. You can’t keep a heron’s natural enemy around. You can’t lawfully kill a heron. The fine can be as much as $10,000. So, what do you do to protect the wildlife in your pond?

Herons do not like large dogs. If you have one, use him! Some say a rubber snake will keep herons away. I don’t agree with it because the snake is part of the heron’s natural diet. Some use plastic alligators and this could very well work.

Herons do not land on the water and often feed from the side of the pond. Make pond-side as uncomfortable to the heron as possible. Their toes are meant to navigate muddy lake bottoms. They don’t walk easily on loose gravel or tiny rocks nor are they capable of navigating slippery rocks. Create your own heron "moat" around the pond.

Place netting over the pond to make it even more difficult for the heron to walk in the shallows. The lightweight black net that we carry is perfect to spoil his fishing plans. It’s barely noticeable and you won’t have to keep it on forever - just long enough for the heron to get the idea that you mean business when you say "no fishing at my pond".  Whenever you use netting lower the water level down a couple of inches if possible or build a frame for the netting so that the netting does not float on the top of the water.  We have actually seen a blue heron standing on the netting and poking his beak through the openings.  He was successful with capturing and killing one goldfish before we ran him off.

The "Scarecrow" is a highly effective product for protecting the pond from not only the Great Blue Heron but other predators as well. It is a motion-detected device that squirts water when set off. The up side of the Scarecrow is that it does squirt and scare off furry and feathery intruders. The down side of the Scarecrow is that it does squirt YOU and all pets and children that move around it. This could be pleasant, however, on hot August days.

The threat of being visited by a Great Blue Heron is real. It happens often when you least expect it and at any time of the year here in the warm, southern states. If the heron cannot find food, chances are he won’t waste his time and return. If he does find food, he will return and eat until all the food is gone. Protect your fish and your investment by putting a few or all of these safeguards in place.