Choosing Water PlantsDragonFly.gif (1803 bytes)

 A pond is not a water garden without water plants.  Plants soften the edges like lace on a dress with the added benefit of helping the pond reach and keep its ecological balance. 

People often ask me what kind and how many plants should be placed in the pond.  I've read articles that will specifically spell out how many of what...  My answer is always: put what you want!  The only time there can be too many plants in the pond is when they are so thick that the fish get caught up in them.  That's the clue to thin it out a bit.

Plants add a whole dimension to a pond by providing natural filtration and reacting with the environment to change parameters of the pond.  They compete with algae for nourishment so they are instrumental with helping a pond clear up from algae bloom.  They also do a number on the dissolved oxygen in the pond.  We often hear of "oxygenating" plants and how beneficial they are to a pond by emitting oxygen during the day.  We rarely hear the flip-side of the story -- how they steal the oxygen back during the night.  The worst thing one can do with a planted pond is turn off the pump at night because of this natural occurrence. 

Water gardens are very beautiful and are as varied in design and style as there are varieties of plants.  A more formal design might look best with a single color planting while a natural pond should mimic nature and be filled with lots of varied vegetation and colorful blooms.  Placement of the plants in any pond will change its appearance as well.  Generally one should follow how Mother Nature has designed her natural lakes and ponds.  Marginal plants will soften the hard edges while waterlilies and floating plants will be sprinkled through the middle.

Giant Juncus, Taro and cattails are set pond side while large water lilies are in the middle at the deepest part.

  

Here, a playful cherubs appear to be hiding in the cattails.

 

There are 4 main groups of plants -- Floaters, Marginal, Bog Plants and Submersed.  Each has its place and purpose in the water garden.

Floaters


Blooming Hyacinths

Water hyacinths, water lettuce, parrot’s feather, water lilies, water poppy and floating hearts all belong to this group of pond plants.  They give shade to the pond by massing in groups.  The only limits you should be aware of with floaters is that you do not cover more than two-thirds of the pond’s surface.

Water Hyacinths and Water Lettuce, with their trailing roots, are wonderful natural "cleaners" for the pond.  They absorb nutrients through their trailing roots so they are very useful when trying to control algae bloom naturally.  Hyacinths blooms beautifully in full sun but generally stay small.  In shade, however, hyacinths grows large and may only offer up a couple of blooms if you're lucky.  Water lettuce does very well in shade and tends to suffer a bit in full sun.  Purchase only a couple of each because both plants multiply like rabbits.  By summer’s end you’ll be pulling out plants and giving them away.  Pull the hyacinths that have already bloomed because they will not bloom again.  Both are tropical and need to be taken out and thrown away before frost hits them so they don't die and fall to the bottom and add to the muck.  In early spring it’s tough to find nice specimens because in Georgia (and in regions 7 and colder) water hyacinths and water lettuce are considered tropical so there's generally no plants available in cooler climates unless they come from the south.  To add problems to availability, it's illegal to bring water hyacinths and lettuce across some state lines.  They are notorious for clogging water ways in tropical climates where they do not die in winter.

Water Lettuce		  

Parrots Feather		  

Parrot’s Feather is hardy so don't throw it out when it dies back for the season.  During winter it loses its frilly fronds and looks more like sticks in water.  In spring the frilly green fronds return to cascade down the waterfall or spread across the top of the water.  Parrots feather can be potted or free-floating.  Any pieces that break off from the mother plant can be left in water to grow.  This is truly one of my favorite plants because it adds a touch of soft green to the pond.  I love to see it cascade over rocks in a waterfall. 

Water lettuce, water hyacinths and pieces of parrots feather can be placed anywhere there is water.  That could be in the pond, in a streambed, in pockets of water in the waterfall or in nooks between rocks along the water's edge.   All they need is for their roots to be in moisture. Parrot’s feather, especially, will cascade down and appear to be planted in the waterfall.  It's one of the best plants to use to soften the edges of a stream or waterfall.

  • I have listed the following plants in the "floaters" category because they have a habit of their pads and leaves floating as they grow and spread out.  Because of this they, too, provide shade to the pond.  If these plants are planted shallow their pads will not float and raise above the water's surface.  This may be fine for the potted water plants such as water poppies and clover but is not good for water lilies.


Hardy Waterlily

Hardy Water Lilies do well in deeper parts of the pond. You can place most varieties 2 to 3 feet below the surface of the water but most larger varieties can go down deeper.  We've had them as low as 5 feet!  You won't read that in the books.  The deeper lilies grow considerably larger pads and flowers!  If you would like to have these beautiful, large water lilies in your pond start with a large, hardy variety and plant it into large pots - 14 inch or wider.  This will give the root plenty of room to grow.  If your water is clear sunshine will get to the pads when you submerse them in the water.  Within a few days the pads will grow to the surface.  It's simply amazing.  If your water is not clear you might want to lower them in stages.  One way to know if a hardy water lily has been planted too shallow is that its pads will grow above the water surface (and do not float).  This will cause the pads to scorch in the hot sun.  For a hardy water lily to "shine" allow at least 1 1/2 cubic feet of space on the water's surface for each plant to spread it's pads and more space for deeper planted water lilies..   

     

Miniature Waterlilies

Miniature (also called Dwarf) Water Lilies are a favorite for smaller water gardeners because they bloom profusely and add a pretty accent to the edge or when placed in the middle of a shallow pond.   There are several varieties of miniature water lilies.  All need lots of sun and can only be lowered down about a foot and a half.  Their pads and  flowers are small, only about a third of the size of a normal water lily's.  This makes these water plants especially suited for container water gardens.


Water lilies love fertilizer. We suggest that you fertilize these jewels about once a month, 2 pond tabs pushed down into the soil as far as your finger will allow.  When we suggest 2 pond tabs each month we are referring to a specific kind of fertilizing tab.  Some are formulated for time-release and may injure the plant if "dosed" at that amount so, if you follow this regimen it is best to use the product on which we're basing our recommendation.  Find them HERE.  Most water lilies need more than 4 hours of sun a day to bloom -- some more than 6.  All water lilies should be placed in a calm part of the pond where water is not constantly sprinkling the pads.    
 

Tropical Waterlily		  

Tropical Water Lilies cannot survive the winters of Georgia or any regions north of us and often are treated as annuals though the corms can certainly be dug out and dried for winter storage.  The flowers on hardy water lilies float on the water's surface while tropical blooms will stand majestically high above the water line.  Blooms of purple and blue are common on tropical water lilies - colors that don't occur on hardy varieties.  There are varieties that bloom at dusk and some have wonderfully colored pads.  Tropicals tend to be aromatic as well as stunningly beautiful so many will brave the extra care they need to enjoy their unique qualities.  Sunshine, shallow water, fertilization and warmth are all needed for healthy tropical water lilies to survive. 


Water Fringe		  

Floating Hearts, Water Fringe and Water Poppies are potted plants with pads that float on the water, very much like the water lily, except smaller. They flower too and need sun to bloom. These are considered more of a bog plant and must be placed only 1 foot or so down.  Their pads tend to be tender and should not be placed where turbulent water or spray will hit them.  Fertilize these with one tab each month during the growing season.   Water clover as it grows will spread and many of the 4-leaf clover leaves it produces will float on the top of the water just like the poppies.  This group of potted water plants are perennial and will die back in fall then begin growing back in early spring.  Allow a good foot or spread for each over the water's surface.  Offshoots from the mother plant will grow in bunches to produce new plants floating on the surface.  These floating offshoots can easily be snipped off from the mother and planted into their own pots.
 

The Mosaic Plant has the same growing habits as the floating hearts, water fringe and water poppies.  The pads of the mosaic plant floats but the blooms are smaller.  This plant will not survive freezing temperatures and is only hardy in tropical regions.

 

Submersible Water Plants

The second category of water plant is a submersible.  Submersibles, also called aerators, are plants usually tied up in bundles and sometimes weighted that live completely under water.  Anacharis is the most common of this type of water plant but there are others that are often more delicate.  Bacopa and Cobamba are two that are very similar.  Also used in aquariums, underwater plants can be easily found at pet or aquarium stores as well as garden centers.  These make great natural "cleaners" and a must for your pond if you don’t have a UV light because they absorb the nutrients that otherwise would be feeding green water algae. 

Underwater plants like these are often referred to as "oxygenators" but I do not care to use that term because it's misleading.  As we covered earlier in the article, during the day plants absorb CO2 and give off oxygen.  During the night, however, the process reverses and water plants absorb the oxygen and give off CO2.  I try to steer people away from the idea that if they have "oxygenating plants" their ponds they need no water movement.  It is important to know that night time is the worst time to turn off a pump for this reason!


Anacharis

Some fish and tadpoles consider underwater plants such as Anacharis a delicacy.  Snails will literally strip the spines of the plants bare.  To protect the anacharis from nibblers you can place it in a screen basket that is upside down with a plant sitting on top to weight it down.  You can also place it in wells of water in the waterfall as long as the plant stays completely submerged.  I’ve read that the number of anacharis (or other submersible plant) to use in a pond is 1 bundle per 10 gallons.  That’s a bit extreme and many choose to place in about 5 to 10 bundles in ponds up to 1000 gallons.  The more anacharis placed in a pond the more it will work against algae bloom. 

Anacharis grows  slower than any other water plant and it is hardy and will actually continue growing throughout Georgia winters.  It can be planted in pots but most often purchased in bundles.  If the bundle is weighted it will sink to the floor of the pond and will do fine.  If not weighted, the bundle will float on the surface of the water and produce tiny white flowers in the sun.  Anacharis (as with other submersible plants) will tolerate sun as well as shade.

Marginals

In nature, marginal water plants will grow along the sides of the lake or natural pond.  They should be planted in the pond to mock their natural environment.   Most all marginal plants survive best in water that is an inch or less covering the soil in which they grow.  There are a few that will survive in deeper water as well.  Many marginals are tall and thin (such as cattails, giant rush and umbrella palms) and should be placed out of the wind's path.  Plant these in wider pots to further secure them from tipping over during storms.  Some marginals grow lower and display a bushing habit.  Examples of these are pickerel rush, arrowhead, reeds and grasses.  Other marginals grow along the water's edge and cover the rocks surrounding the pond.  These have vine-like habits and are generally classified as ground covers. 


Umbrella Palm

   The Umbrella Palm is hands down my absolute favorite marginal water plant.  It's hardy - it dies back but comes back in the spring - and it is the most versatile of all the marginals.  It can be placed as deep as a couple of feet down as long as the umbrellas of the plant are out of the water and there is at least 1 foot of plant stem showing.  It will grow as big as the pot it's in so place it in a lotus pot for a really big show!  It doesn't flower but it's so interesting it doesn't need to.  The umbrella palm will do well in full sun as well as shade.  Here's a trick:  If a stem is broken (which often happens on the home with it) but not all the way through simply tape it up with scotch tape and it will continue to grow.
     


Cattails

   In the south Cattails are everywhere!  They grow in retention ponds, on the edges of large lakes, in puddles by the road and in ornamental ponds.  There are many varieties of cattails but in water garden centers and nurseries normally only two kinds are found - a large growing variety and a dwarf for smaller water gardens.  Cattails do not flower like we think of blooms.  They produce the familiar cigar-shaped "tails" on the tops of their stalks instead.  Although cattails can live in partial shade they do best and produce their tails in full sun.  Dragonflies are attracted to cattails and often land on them.  
     


Thalia

   Another extremely tall water plant that must be sheltered from the wind and best planted in a large pot to keep it from tipping over into the pond is Thalia.  A cousin to the Canna plant (and some varieties of canna take to water too!) this tall, graceful water plant produces a bunch of blooms at the top of a long stalk that look similar to small grape bunches.  This is not the best plant for a small pond and one should limit the pond to one nice Thalia specimen otherwise it begins looking like a small jungle.   Thalia cannot tolerate deep water but may be placed a little lower than most marginals.

 

    
Most water plants, even if they are blooming plants, will do okay in partial shade.  Placing a plant that normally likes a lot of sun in a shaded area will often cause it to not bloom or bloom sparingly or, if it normally has variegated leaves, it may lose its variation.   All potted marginal plants can use a shot of fertilizer every now and then.  We suggest 1 pond tab once a month during growing season.
     


Grasses and Rushes

   Bull Rush / Variegated Rush / Carex / Pickerel Rush / Star Grass
Some of the most interesting textures that can be added to a water garden is with rushes and grasses.  They grow in a bushy habit and to a height of 1 to 2 feet.  These all tend to be spiky in appearance and it's great to mass the different grasses and rushes together.  Just about all of them are hardy and the first to grow in early spring.
     


Silk Stockings

   Arrowhead, Arrow Arum and Silk Stocking Arrowhead are all in same family and quite showy with their bushy habit and delicate blooms.  I love the Silk Stocking because the purple in the leaves is quite striking, especially when paired with a black velvet taro!  These like it best in sun and just below the water's surface.
     

  Taro is tropical water plant that can be one of the prettiest in the pond.  They look like smaller versions of Elephant Ear plants but they do not have the root corm like the elephant ear.  Though I've seen some of the green varieties of taro survive a gentle winter the black magic taro will definitely not.  The black magic taro is my favorite because the color is dark purple.
     

  The Lotus is a magical water plant that is famous for its large blooms and edible roots.  It is such a large plant that it can't fit into small ponds but no large water garden should be without at least one of these beautiful plants.  Planted in its own huge pot, the lotus is the last to come up and the first to start dying back for the season.  It is hardy and will come back each year.  It loves fertilization but care must be taken whenever sticking in the fertilizer tabs so that the root is not punctured.  We suggest 2 to 3 tabs per month during its growing season. 
     

  Once the lotus blossoms are spent they begin dropping petals into the water.  Within days the familiar lotus seed pod is left behind.  These seeds can be planted but, while they are still very fresh, they are quite delicious!  Dried seed pods are used in dried flower arrangements all the time.  The big leaves of this plant are held high and repel water.  It's fun to pour water over them just to see the water roll away.  This is one of very few plants that I would not recommend for a shade garden because shade just doesn't allow the plant to become its best.  Lotus can be planted outside the pond in lotus pots anywhere in the sun as long as the pot is kept filled with water.  If dropped into the pond, the pond's surface should come up just above the rim of the pot to allow water inside.
     

Vines and Trailing Plants Soften the Edges of this Pond
     
Ivy and other ground cover plants planted around the perimeter of the pond do a fine job of naturalizing the hard edges of the pond.  Many of these, including ivies, creeping jenny and creeping raspberry as well as many hosta varieties have adapted to water's edge by being able to thrive in soil that is not drained well and in small puddles of water.  Our ornamental ponds are lined and should not leak so we must keep in mind that these plants, if planted in soil beside the pond, should not be allowed to starve for water.   
     

Creeping Jenny		   Creeping Jenny is often placed in pockets of water in the waterfall or stream.  It is a bright yellowish-green that can turn colors with the season and spreads rather quickly over the rocks, water and the ground outside the pond.  It is sold sometimes as a water plant but most often I've found it as a ground cover in the perennial section of garden centers.  It does well in shady and in partial sun but can get a little too much sun.
     

Creeping Raspberry		   Creeping Raspberry is awesome for those high waterfalls that need something to grow quickly around the rocks.  I don't know how creeping raspberry fairs directly in the water.  I do know that it covers the rocks well if planted beside the pond and waterfall directly into the ground.  It can grow fine in full sun but it does the best in a partial sun situation.  The creeping raspberry pictured here grew to this fullness within only a couple of years.

Bog Plants

These are the water plants that naturally grow in bogs, swamps or wetlands.  They like wet feet but do not necessarily care to be in the deeper water.  Many bog plants do very well in shade while others prefer sun to set bloom. 


Pitcher Plants

   Many carnivorous plants are bog plants.  They've evolved through the years to take advantage of a swamp's ready supply of mosquitoes and other insects.  The Pitcher Plant falls into this category.  It accomplishes its ghastly feat of eating bugs by attracting them with its scent and encouraging them into its throat where it slowly digests them.  It’s an attractive plant (available in an array of colors) but has that touch of evil.  The pitcher plant needs to sit in no more than about an inch of water and it needs to be in a sheltered position.  Although it’s hardy, it’s not tough. Too much wind or an accidental hit may knock off one of its throats and you won’t see another throat until the following year.  I've seen these planted in a very wet section of a stream where they were still planted in soil but the soil was in an area of the stream where the water kept it wet.  These were absolutely beautiful in that setting and they thrived as well.

Pitcher plants are sun-lovers but can generally do well in partial sun.  The most important issue is the exposure to wind.  Most varieties are hardy as far north as North Carolina.
     


Swamp Hibiscus

   There are several varieties of Swamp Hibiscus available to the water gardener.  The one pictured is my favorite.  It has large, red blooms that are about 8 inches across and leaves that look just like marijuana leaves.  We grew them in our bog garden at the store and there were always plenty of jokes going on with our policemen customers and others who wanted to smoke them.  I wouldn't know but I've heard they don't do the same job.  These are tall plants, taller than me by the end of the season.  The blooms are magnificent and there are plenty of them once the plant reaches maturity for the year.  They love wet feet and can tolerate being planted in pots in the pond similarly to the way we plant marginals.  They bloom well in full sun.  I don't really know how they do in shade but I'm guessing not very well.  Plant them in wide pots and keep them away from the wind or they will topple over into the pond.    
     

By no means have I covered all that there is available out there for the water gardener.  My intent with this article is to give some ideas on how to choose what plants are best for your pond.  Happy water gardening. Remember that you’re limited only by your imagination and if you find your imagination’s run dry you can visit us and we’ll offer suggestions!

From The Clear Water Edition of What's Up, Doc?, May, 1999 / Revised April 2007
© Copyright 1999, 2007, PondDoc.com. All rights Reserved. Reproduction of this article prohibited without prior consent of The Pond Doc.

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