The purpose of the ultraviolet water clarifier is to sterilize free-floating algae so that the water does not turn green. The bead filter will take out the dirt and make the water healthy but the water will not be clear without a properly sized and installed UV unit.

UV’s are sized by wattage and wattage is determined by amount of water and a few other factors such as amount of fertilizer (fish waste) in the water and sun. For example: a pond less than 300 gallons would use a 9-watt UV. A 9-watt unit for 400 gallons in the shade might work but if the pond is in direct sun all day a 9-watt UV will not keep it clear. We do not suggest you rely on the manufacturer’s suggestions. They tend to exaggerate effectiveness and usually the size determination is based if all factors are optimum. Don’t make an expensive mistake by under-sizing the unit. The Doc can help you determine the best wattage for your situation.

The UV is a PVC plastic cylinder with two openings so that water can pass from one end to the other. The water passes over a quartz sleeve inside the cylinder where a lamp is encased that emits ultraviolet rays. The lamp is attached to the electrical transformer and the end screwed hand-tight.

You wouldn’t believe the number of folks who ask — so here is the answer: No, the UV does not go under water — not unless you want to fry your fish or yourself. Okay, there’s one exception but it’s not the type we’re profiling in The Doc’s Dream System.

The UV is most effectively installed after the bead filter. In many cases it cannot be installed directly into the main return line because the water will flow too quickly through the unit to make it effective. A bypass must be constructed so only a portion of the water passes through the UV. This is most effectively done with PVC.

A tee is placed in the PVC line and a short piece of PVC is run to one opening of the UV cylinder. It doesn’t matter which. The other opening runs back to another tee that is installed in the PVC main return line. The two tees are separated by a gate valve (Component 8a) so that the amount of water that flows through the bypass can be controlled.

The quartz sleeve and lamp of the UV are both very delicate. Whenever handling and while installing the unit be very careful not to break them. The slightest crack in the quartz sleeve can allow water to seep onto the lamp and short out the system. This also can void the warranty.

Component 9 - The Water Return

Don’t use sand. It creates a cleaning nightmare. Use rounded pebbles or a liner disguise such as “rock on a roll”.

Place a jutting rock or two in the middle of the stream to interrupt the water flow and create rapids.

It’s okay to pull the plants out of their pots and plant directly into the rocks. They’ll grow well from nutrients in the water.

If placing large boulders on the “banks” of the stream be careful that the weight of the boulder does not push the edge of the liner down lower than water level. It can drain your pond in minutes.

Cement rocks together to force the water over the rocks instead of below them.

Plant without soil. We suggest planting in bags of well-rinsed lava rock. Lift the bags (and the plants) out for easy cleaning.

Perfect setting for a vegetable filter. One can never have too many methods of filtration.

Keep the water on top of the rock by cementing the crevices. For example: The water will fill up a bog pond then overflow into the falls by spilling over a large flat rock. Don’t allow the water to flow under the rock by cementing the crevices.

Create a cave behind the falls to echo the sound of the splash.

Line the walls of the cave with rock. Stack rock behind the falls to hide the liner and create a natural appearance.

Watch the splash. Water escapes the pond via splashing quite easily. Simply moving a rock can often correct the splashing.

Cement or bronze fountains add elegance to a pond as long as it’s not overdone. Most statuary fountains are not designed for the amount of water flow coming from this type of system so the main water return must be split and only a portion of the water sent to the fountain via a reduced water line.

Aerating Fountains

A fleur-de-lis, bell or bubbler in the middle of the main pond can add aeration and a touch of formality. Since the plumbing on this system has been run outside the pond for filtration reasons it makes it more difficult to install one of these types of fountains. It can be done with a little planning by running the return line back to the pond and creating a manifold for the fountain.

As you tighten a few fittings perhaps or re-arrange a few of the rocks to create that natural appearance you should be able to begin filling your pond with water. It may take half an hour or half a day, depending on how big the pond is.

Now is the BEST opportunity you’ll ever have of getting your correct gallonage. You can easily do this by noting the reading on the water meter before you begin then after you finish take the reading again and do the math. You can also use a water meter that attaches to the end of your water hose while filling the pond.

After the pond is filled with water the moment approaches when you plug in the power and test the results of your labor. You hold your breath in anticipation as the water is sucked out of the bottom drain and begins filling the upper pond or the waterfall...

Rarely is anyone disappointed with their new pond, however, sometimes something may go wrong and adjustments needed to fix the problem. Below is a trouble-shooting guide of sorts of a few more common problems that can occur.

Waterfall not flowing as much as you wish? Try restricting water to the induction jets by lowering the gate valves a little until the correct flow to the waterfall is established.

Is the pump losing its prime after it is turned off and then turned back on? Was a check valve properly installed between both the bottom drain and the pump and the skimmer and the pump? All the water will run out of the pump and back into the pond whenever the pump is turned off except when a back flow preventer (aka check valve) is installed properly.

Why is the cap to my 3” bottom drain floating? The dome that covers the 3” bottom drain opening must be filled with sand to prevent it from floating to the surface of the pond.

I have a UV on my system. Why is my water turning green? The water may be passing through the unit too quickly for it to be effective. Try raising the gate valve in the UV by-pass slightly to allow less water pressure through the unit. There’s a chance also that the unit isn’t getting enough water through it. If the first doesn’t work (or the green gets thicker) try pushing the gate valve down a little to force more water through the unit.